Yangshou Fall 2007

Yangshuo is the first place we've visited in China where I felt like I was visiting a unique area and real culture. Shanghai doesn't give that feeling. Simply this was a place to escape the hustle and bustle of Shanghai and nestle amongst the Karsh outcroppings at a way off the beaten path resort: The Yangshou Mountain Resort, hestled on the shore of the Li Rivewr.

We did venture into downtown Yangshuo but this was during National Day. (Copy follows) National Day (October 1)

It is the anniversary of the founding of the People's Republic of China in 1949 in the wake of routing the Nationalists who have since taken refuge in Taiwan. There used to be grand parades squares of major cities of the country. Now celebrations usually take the form of parties in amusement parks by day and fire-works and grand TV ensembles during the evening. Employees enjoy two paid days-off. It is also a good occasion for many people to take a short excursion to enjoy the beauty of the golden Fall

The following is from where you can read more about Yangshou. Google Karsh Mountains for the history of these outcroppings, which were pushed up by Mama Earth's burping millions of years ago Wind and rain eroded them over the eons to their present shapes.

Yangshuo lies in the northeast of Guangxi Province and to the southeast of Guilin City. The special geography gives it breath-taking beauty while over 1,400 years of history bless it with a deep traditional culture. The diverse ethnic minority groups including Hui, Zhuang, Yao and others, enrich it with special folk cultures represented by their various festivals; while many foreign residents add exotic flavors to its fascination.

The famous Li River traverses the county and brings it the most beautiful scenery. Along the extremely pure river, thousands of hills stand in different poses and with different expressions, such as Moon Hill, Mural Hill and Schoolboy Hill which is the natural stage of the world famous opera 'Impression on Sanjie Liu'.

Sanjie Liu is a fairy singer in the legend of the Zhuang minority group. Big Banyan, a huge tree with a history of over 1,400 years, is said to be the place where her love story happened. The 'Little Li River'- the Yulong River – is a paradise for a cruise because of its green hills, silky water and ancient bridges. You can also go to Xanadu, a primitive minority village full of folk culture and tranquil rurality.

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Myanmar (Burma) Inle Lake

The web is a vast enclcylopedia, so here's an excerpt from www.visit-mekong.com I'll follow that with a couple of quick observations and our "monk" story.

At 875 metres above sea level, Inle Lake is still surrounded by high hills that help to keep the waters calm and the lake area misty. The huge and beautiful lake does not only contain a marvelous microcosm of aquatic life, but is also surrounded by a harmonious blend of national races. 22 km long and 11 km wide, Inle Lake is home to 70,000 Bamar, Danaw, Danu, Intha, Kayah, Pa-O, Shan, and Taung-yo peoples, among others - roughly half of the areas population.

Of these groups, one of the largest is the non-indigenous Intha, who live in 17 stilted villages around the lake. They are said to have migrated from Dawei, in southern Myanmar, in the late 1300s. Most are involved in fishing for the local carp and other freshwater fish that are abundant in the lake with cone shaped nets. The Inthas are renowned for rowing their flat-bottomed boats from the stern with one leg, so that they can watch for shoals of fish, and avoid the large clumps of water hyacinth and low-lying islands that are scattered about Inle.

Inle Lake also supports a thriving farming community that produces a wide range of vegetables and flowers, and rice is cultivated at the northern end of the lake on extremely fertile floating islands. The local men also produce silver and brassware, pottery and lacquerware, while the lake's womenfolk are highly skilled silk weavers. The area is the second largest producer of silk products in the country.

Many of the garments produced by the local women find themselves in use at the yearly Phaung Daw U and Waso festivals, which run concurrently in September and October. During the former, sacred statues from Phaung Daw U Paya are rowed around the lake to bless the local monasteries, and bring prosperity to the hard-working local communities of Inle Lake.

Okay...that's the book part. For us, staying at the Golden Isles cottage "resort" on stilts on the lake looked like the perfect way to spend some relaxing time watching the water drift by and taking day trips to the local villages and stilt towns.

What we weren't prepared for was the "Wailing Mosque" or so we thought. Having lived in Qatar for 2 years at around 5 p.m. from across the waters we heard a blood curdling wail, which sounded like the call to prayers in the Middle East. Well, we know we weren't there, so maybe this was some chant from one of the temples. It shortly ended. Or so we thought.

Then we heard it at 9 pm. Then at 1 a.m. . Okay...it'll end soon. NOT. Then at 3 a.m.

The next time talking to a fellow teacher, Rachel, we remarked. "Gee you think someone would have told us about the noise from the village across the lake. How can they call this a "resort'?

During the day we were far away and about, so no "call to mosque".

Ah, but that night. Yup. at 5 p.m. Then about 9pm...1 a.m. 3 a.m. I slept with my BOSE sound deadening headphones on AND THAT DIDN'T HELP.

So off Sue goes to find out what the noise is about. "Oh that. You are very lucky. You are here during a monk's novitiation. This only happens a few times a year."

Seems that the village calls everyone around for miles to come and share in the celebration. Only happens when school is out. Or when we're at the resort!

Even with that this was a place not to be missed. Besides the friendliness of the people, seeing a completely different way of life was eye opening. Life is life no matter where you go......the trappings may be different, but you can see the same emotions that make us who we are.

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Myanmar (Burma) Bagan

This was our first step back in time. Cue Twilight Zone music.

Okay, maybe the first step back in time was taking the flight from Yangon to Bagan leaving from an airport that should have been painted black and white and been in a 40's movie. Next was getting into a car from at least 30 years ago, which when I described it later to teachers who have traveled extensively, nonplussed they said: "Oh that sounds like Cuba." Our taxi dated to about 1970. And if it wasn't for the falling headliner, missing door handle, windows that rolled down but not up, most of the rear seat coverd..but only most, then maybe it would have been charming. Fun and unusual: Yes. Charming ain't gonna cut it.

Cue Starship Enterprise.

Warp speed back in time to I don't know oh maybe a 1,000 years ago.

Cliff notes from our faithful guidebook, The Lonely Planet. Bagan was a prime spot for activty for about 250 years dating from about 1,047 and ending with the footsteps of Kubla Khan raiders in 1287.

We stayed in Old Bagan, where the government relocated all the inhabitants away to create the Archaeological Zone, located on the bend of the Ayeyarwady River. Hotels are allowed as are a few local restaurants, but other than that it's an arechological zone.

As Lonely Planet says: "Imagine all the medieval cathedrals of Europe sitting on Manhatten Island --and then some-- and you begin to get a sense of the ambition of the Bagan kings who built as many as 4,400 temples over a 250 year period." Ayup, 4,400 temples.

After being overtaken by Kulai Khan and the Mongol invasion, the sites reamined deserted and untouched over the centuries.

The "why" is what I'm still trying to find out. All I can surmise is offering to the gods.

These pictures can't convey the vast amount of temples in this area. I kept looking for a great post card or aerial shot, but the best I could do was take a photo of a small area from the top of a temple.

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